Why You Need Travel Insurance for the Annapurna Base Camp Trek

This ABC Trek post is the longest I’ve ever written for the blog!

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One of the most demanding parts of our round-the-world trip this year was hiking to Annapurna Base Camp (ABC) in Nepal. It tested our bodies, patience, and planning — and ultimately rewarded us with incredible views and memories.

The walking itself was manageable thanks to Snow Leopard Trek, our guide Tek, and our porter Raj. With their support we averaged roughly 5–6 hours of hiking per day. It was early spring, the rhododendrons were in bloom, and on a clear morning we watched the sunrise over the snowy amphitheater of the Annapurna Sanctuary.

No trip goes perfectly — illness and accidents can happen. We had travel insurance for that reason, and it proved invaluable when things went sideways. Having coverage gave us peace of mind and real help when we needed medical attention and emergency transport.

We’re grateful to Snow Leopard Trek for arranging our itinerary and for the kindness of Anmol and Yankila at the office. Tek was an exceptional guide: knowledgeable, patient, and personable. Raj, our porter, was always smiling and worked tirelessly to make our journey smooth.

Tek taught us a lot about Nepali culture, customs, and history during the trek. We stayed in touch with him and his family afterward and hope to visit again someday. If you plan to trek in Nepal, consider going local and supporting reputable guides and companies who employ Nepali staff.

Below I’ve written a detailed account of our ABC trek — the good, the challenging, and what we learned about preparation and travel insurance. Fair warning: some details are frank and messy, but they’re important for understanding why we changed plans.

Our ABC Trek Story in Nepal

Getting to Pokhara

We arrived in Pokhara by bus from Kathmandu on March 31. The ride took over seven hours on rough, partially unpaved roads. On April 3, the day before the trek, Dylan and I picked up last-minute supplies: toilet paper, extra socks, rehydration salts, and gluten-free snacks. Preparing for a multi-day trek means bringing the basics and a few comforts.

The night before departure I barely slept, packing and double-checking our gear. I kept notes in my travel journal so I could recount everything later.

Our Trek Itinerary

Background on the Annapurna Base Camp Trek:

The Annapurna Sanctuary is a natural amphitheater surrounded by peaks that offer panoramic views of Annapurna South, Annapurna I, Gangapurna and Machhapuchhre (Fish Tail). The trek from Pokhara follows traditional trade routes through villages, terraced fields, rhododendron and oak forests, and the Modi River valley into the Sanctuary.

Snow Leopard Trek has decades of experience guiding in Nepal. Booking local providers supports guides, porters, and teahouse owners in the region.

Go local and trek with Snow Leopard!

Gluten-Free

I manage celiac disease, so Tek frequently explained my dietary needs to teahouse owners. Dal bhat, a staple we ate often, is naturally gluten-free and potato-based dishes were common. I packed rice cakes, Nutella, peanut butter, and trail mix for backup and had no gluten-related issues on the trek.

Packing familiar snacks and having a guide to communicate dietary restrictions made the experience much easier.

And now, here’s how it all happened!

Day 1: Nayapul to Tikhedhunga

We left Pokhara at 8 AM and drove to Nayapul. Heavy rain had turned the dirt roads to mud; at one point locals and a policeman helped push our van out. From Nayapul we walked into the hills, passing farms, houses, and children until we reached Tikhedhunga. We stayed at Chandra Guest House, took hot showers when available, and warmed up with masala chai while Tek shared stories about the region.

It was an encouraging first day and we rested up for the next stage.

ABC Trek Day 2: Tikhedhunga to Ghorepani

Day two included hundreds of stone steps and dense forest paths. We passed rhododendron groves in brilliant pinks and reds. At lunch I tried dal bhat and liked it. We reached Ghorepani mid-afternoon, warmed ourselves by the teahouse fire, and socialized with other trekkers before a night of rain.

ABC Trek Day 3: Ghorepani to Tadapani

We considered hiking Poon Hill but weather kept us in. From Ghorepani we headed to Tadapani through fog, prayer flags, and more rhododendrons. Tek shared local stories along the way. By evening the clouds cleared and we enjoyed views of the Annapurna peaks before a cozy night near the stove.

ABC Trek Day 4: Tadapani to Chhomrong

This day started well, but midafternoon my stomach problems that had been mild earlier grew worse. I spent time using squat toilets and took ginger tea and Imodium. Tek and Dylan were supportive and we pushed on to Chhomrong where I rested, took antibiotics after consulting my dad, and hoped to recover.

ABC Trek Day 5: Chhomrong to Dovan

I woke feeling better and the day went smoothly. We took it slowly and paused before leaving. The trail included steep up-and-down sections and many steps, but I reached Dovan feeling stable, took a hot shower, and rested with other trekkers in the dining area.

ABC Trek Day 6: Dovan to MBC (Machhapuchhre Base Camp)

We climbed through changing terrain until the forests gave way to snow. Near Deurali we put on crampons and continued uphill toward Machhapuchhre Base Camp. My stomach issues returned in the cold and snow, forcing multiple stops. I cleaned up as best I could with a bucket of hot water, layered up, and tried to rest while taking antibiotics. That night the sky cleared and the stars were incredible.

ABC Trek Day 7: Annapurna Base Camp to Deurali

Today was the highlight of our adventure — reaching Annapurna Base Camp.

We started before dawn and, by a small miracle, my stomach held together for the two-hour climb to ABC at about 13,500 feet. The sunrise over the peaks was a powerful reward for a difficult week. At the summit we took photos and soaked up the accomplishment. Soon after, though, both Dylan and I became sick again. We descended to Deurali, where Tek arranged a room and we assessed next steps.

By evening both of us were vomiting and unable to continue. Tek contacted Snow Leopard Trek’s office and arranged an emergency helicopter evacuation to Pokhara. With severe dehydration and no safe way to continue the trek, that decision was the right one.

ABC Trek Day 8: Deurali to Pokhara

Fog delayed the pilot, and we waited on the ridge until late morning when the helicopter arrived. The flight was a smooth, breathtaking 15-minute ride over the Annapurna region. Once in Pokhara we went straight to CIWEC Travel Hospital. I underwent blood and stool tests and was admitted for IV fluids, antibiotics, and probiotics after results showed infection and electrolyte depletion.

The hospital provided attentive care, and after fluids and the right antibiotics I began to improve. The total hospital bill was about $750; the helicopter cost us around $1,127. We kept all receipts and documentation for insurance reimbursement.

ABC Trek Day 9: Pokhara

The next morning I felt markedly better. IV removed, medications prescribed, and with probiotics and rest I recovered quickly over the following days in Pokhara. Within a few weeks of follow-up supplements and rest my gut was back to normal.

ABC Trek Aftermath: The Importance of Travel Insurance

We purchased travel insurance before our long trip. The policy covered evacuation, hospital care, and related expenses. We paid the helicopter and hospital bills up front (approximately $2,000 total), kept all documentation, and filed a claim. After submitting receipts and coordinating between insurers, we were reimbursed. Travel insurance turned out to be essential for this trip — covering emergency evacuation, medical care, and many unforeseen costs.

If you plan adventurous travel, read policy details carefully and choose coverage appropriate for remote hiking, altitude, and potential evacuations. It can save you both money and stress if something goes wrong.

ABC TREK: Thank You

A big thank you to Snow Leopard Trek, our guide Tek, porter Raj, and the office team who helped arrange transport and medical care. Thanks to the CIWEC Travel Hospital for excellent treatment, and to Dylan for unwavering support during a difficult time. This trek was challenging, humbling, and unforgettable.

“Climb the mountain not to plant your flag, but to embrace the challenge, enjoy the air and behold the view. Climb it so you can see the world, not so the world can see you.”
-David McCullough Jr.